Dive Into the World of Tinned Fish

As the owner of Formaggio Kitchen, a trio of specialty food stores in Greater Boston, Julia Hallman, A06, is attuned to spotting food trends—usually before anyone else. About five years ago, Hallman noticed a growing appetite for tinned fish and tinned seafood, so she worked with the stores’ tinned fish buyer to increase their selection. 

“In this case, I don’t even want to call it a food trend as much as a realization that this is a great product,” Hallman said. 

Now, customers can try octopus in olive oil with garlic and chili from local purveyor Island Creek, whose website includes a primer on Tinned Fish 101, or grilled razor clams in extra virgin olive oil from Spanish producer Güeyu Mar. 

You might see these among varieties of tinned fish on a seacuterie board, a play on the term “charcuterie” which refers to cured meats and accoutrements that may be served at a gathering—or for a tasty, indulgent solo dinner.

On our list of seacuterie must-haves is, of course, the star: tins of cured, canned, dry-aged, or pickled seafoods. These can be plated individually or prepared in spreads, like one using smoked salmon, crème fraiche, and dill.

Once you have made your selections, place varieties on a large cutting board or platter, surround them with slices or hunks of crusty baguette, a few neutral-flavored crispy snacks like crackers or chips, fresh herbs like dill or parsley, and pickled condiments like capers, olives, or cornichons. 

Be sure to put out oyster forks, small spreaders (like the ones you would use for cheese), and long toothpicks to encourage folks to try different combinations and flavors! 

Photo: Shutterstock

So, What’s the Big Reel—er, Deal? 

The boost in popularity in recent years, Hallman said, can be partially attributed to the growth in travel to certain regions where tinned fish has always been a staple. A recent surge in American tourism in Portugal and other areas along the Mediterranean, in particular, has encouraged new culinary experimentation. 

“Our shelves represent what customers see when they travel,” Hallman said. “Our goal is to help them relive the stories and feelings they experience abroad.” 

Those items might include sea urchin, mussels, squid, or octopus, which are typical appetizers, entrees, and snacks in many European cultures. In the United States, by contrast, these foods are often seen as luxury items since Americans typically associate tinned fish with simple, utilitarian dishes like tuna salad. 

“When people travel, they’ll ask, ‘Why don’t we have this in the U.S.?’ At home, they start researching things they enjoyed in places like San Sebastian, where tinned fish is really popular, because they want to share it with their friends and family.”

A Pandemic Necessity

Around the same time Hallman noticed a growth in interest, The New York Times published an article about the beauty and simplicity of preparing and eating tinned fish—specifically during the pandemic, when eating out was impossible and Americans shouldered the burden of preparing three meals a day. 

“Seafood from a can doesn’t have to be survival fare: Superior preserved products are a delicacy, if your budget allows,” the story’s author, David Tanis, wrote. “It’s worth the investment to pay a little more for high-quality anchovies and Ventresca tuna, and a joy to find them lurking in the cupboard.”

During the pandemic, Tanis, who writes the City Kitchen column for the Times, scanned his cupboard and put together a menu based entirely on the tinned fish selection in his cupboard: crostini with garlic, sun-dried tomato, and anchovy; piquillo peppers stuffed with tuna; spicy clams and bacon over spaghetti, tossed in a basil-parsley puree with peas. 

The piece even suggested what wines to pair with tinned fish: “a lively, incisive white without overt oak or tropical fruitiness.” 

Getting Your Feet Wet (or Wetter)

Hallman, who has been at Formaggio for almost 20 years, has witnessed an evolution in appetites for certain foods. For customers who have never tried tinned fish before but are interested in learning more, Hallman suggests experimenting with unique varieties of familiar fish that are packed in a beautiful sauce. Take, for instance, the tuna fillets in olive oil with delicate Azorean lemons and a sauce made from red chiles called piri piri.

“It’s sort of like a steppingstone approach,” Hallman said. “If someone has had a tuna nicoise salad before, then they’ve had artisan tinned fish because the salad has a beautiful olive oil-cured tuna in it.”

In the same way she wouldn’t recommend someone try a very pungent cheese as an introduction to artisan cheeses, Hallman recommends a slow build when it comes to tinned fish and tinned seafood. One way to become more familiar with the varieties available is by joining a tinned fish subscription club.

Photo: Shutterstock

“It’s a really fun experience—that’s where you can geek out a little bit,” Hallman said of Formaggio’s mail-order club. “We're ordering special things that we might not have on our shelf, obscure products that you maybe have never had before, and sharing tips on how to prepare it and notes on the producer.” 

For those who prefer to explore the world of tinned fish on their own, Hallman has one piece of advice: don’t judge a product by its tin.

“Don’t buy based on how pretty the box is or how pretty the tin is,” Hallman said. “Sometimes the best products are in really old-school packages that are maybe not as flashy and cute as some of the new things,” she said. “But at the end of the day, you’re eating it—you’re not wearing it.” 

If you’re already a fan of tinned fish and want to broaden your horizons, check out Wirecutter’s list of the 25 best tinned fish on the market, which is packed with adventurous options and includes notes on how to prepare and eat each item listed.

The Times also does a great job explaining terms you might encounter when learning about tinned fish, like “bark,” which refers to the exterior someone might find on a smoked barbecue product—only here it’s highlighting the “meaty, chewy exterior” of slow smoked mackerel with chili flakes. 

Tinned Fish Health and Nutrition Tips

Preserved fish and seafood pack a nutritious punch, according to our colleagues at the Tufts University Health & Nutrition Letter. These foods provide essential nutrients such as protein, iron, calcium, unsaturated fats like omega-3 fatty acids, and vitamin D—one of the only natural sources available. 

Photo: Courtesy of Tufts University Health & Nutrition Letter

Typically shelf-stable for up to five years, tinned fish can make eating seafood more convenient, and because of the high heat used to cook tinned products, the bones of the fish become soft and edible. 

Keep in mind that fish packed in olive oil, like tuna, will contain fewer omega-3 fatty acids after being drained because these fatty acids are oil-soluble. If you’re looking for a higher omega-3 density, tuna in water is a better bet.